June 2009
Mangia, Mangia, Mangia!
Bringing Vesuvius to Takoma Park
Roscoe’s Neapolitan Pizzeria
by Elizabeth Brikama
photos by Julie Wiatt
Judging by the number of people waiting to get in, word has spread that there is a new sit down restaurant in town worth a look see. The word on the street has been one of great anticipation, coupled with enthusiasm that Roscoe’s Neapolitan Pizzeria is finally here and open for business. Early reviews from those lucky to get a table have been nothing but positive, even as the understandable opening kinks are being worked out. It would seem to make this review completely unnecessary, but then there would go my excuse to eat copious amounts of food over several visits.
While patrons await the liquor license, the house made Lime Cooler is a refreshing alternative to the usual sodas and teas. What a treat to not have to wait for annual county fairs and festivals in order to enjoy a crisp, refreshing lime fizz! This may well become the beverage of choice well after the county grants the license.
Believe it or not, the Grilled Mussel Skewers are my first foray into the world of mollusks. I know, shameful coming from a coastal native. A twist on the classic Rumaki, this dish features grilled mussels wrapped in crispy bits of prosciutto on a bed of greens. My first taste of mussels didn’t disappoint (really!).
The Eggplant Roullade is a hearty dish of baked eggplant layered with mozzarella, fresh basil, roasted red pepper and olive puree. Served steaming hot with slices of baguette, it is so comforting and filling, you are literally enveloped in its warmth.
The Red Chili Crostini is comprised of two lengthwise slices of toasted baguette with a liberal slather of spicy red chili spread whose flavor is nicely balanced by the Buffalo mozzarella slices on top. My absolute favorite appetizer on the menu, however, is a salad plate piled high with perfectly blanched, crunchy green beans, sliced grape tomatoes and pine nuts bathed in balsamic vinaigrette (anchovy vinaigrette also available). I could have dined on this alone.
The paninis are grilled to perfection and served warm and satisfying. The Prosciutto Panino is overflowing with salty prosciutto, arugula, sliced tomato and mozzarella, while the Grilled Vegetable Panino is bountiful with grilled, sliced and crunchy asparagus, Fontina cheese, roasted red peppers and sun dried tomato. All are served with red leaf lettuce and a creamy, tangy balsamic vinaigrette dressing.
Alas, I have had the chance to try only one pizza before going to press, but I chose well. The Prosciutto Arugula white pizza is laden with arugula, mozzarella and prosciutto. The crunchy, thin crust allows the flavors of the toppings to shine without being overshadowed by the dough.
When tiramisu is on the menu, it must be ordered. A fluffy cloud of lady fingers and mascarpone soaked in espresso and dusted with cocoa, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to order dessert when ordering your main course. Yes, it’s that good!
Aside from the delicious repast, however, what I truly appreciate about Roscoe’s are their barstools. It is the rare barstool that I actually find comfortable to sit on for any length of time. All shapes and sizes will find bellying up to the bar for good food and conversation a pleasure. Indeed, everything about Roscoe’s is a welcome addition to the dining landscape of Old Takoma.
*As we went to press, the liquor license is still on track for July. An espresso machine and take-out are both still pending.
Roscoe’s Neapolitan Pizzeria
7040 Carroll Avenue
Takoma Park, MD 20912
301-920-0804
www.roscoespizzeria.com
Sunday - Thursday 11- 3 and 5 - 10
Friday & Saturday 11 - 3 and 5 - 11
Closed on Tuesdays for the time being
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