Time to think about some pruning March, 2007

But not your Azaleas!

It's March 3rd, 60 degrees. Is Spring here? We all hope so.

There are certain plants that like to be pruned BEFORE they bloom because they bloom on new wood (forming their buds in Spring 2007).

Some shrubs bloom on old wood (formed their buds in Fall 2006). (For example, do not prune your Azaleas until AFTER they bloom. Otherwise you cut off all the buds that are planning to bloom when they think it is safe.)

What to prune now? And how much?

GOAL: Remove dead, diseased or damaged wood, and increase this year's bloom.

Hard pruning

With your sharpened hand pruners, or very sharp loppers, it is wise to cut back the following shrubs:

• Beautyberry [Callicarpa]—to short stubs
• Bluebeard [Caryopteris]—to short stubs
• Butterfly bush [Buddleia]—to 10" above ground
• Bush clover [Lespedeza]—to 10"
• Hibiscus—to 10"
• Ninebark [Physocarpus]—to 10"
• Smoke bush [Cotinus]—to 10"
• St. John's Wort [Hypericum]—to short stubs
• Twig dogwood (red or yellow)—if they are showy now, leave them until end of winter (when is that?); then trim back to 12".
• Witchhazel—to 20"
• Ornamental grasses—to 10"
• Winter Jasmine—to 24" but only after bloom is over. Usually blooms in January and did this year. Will they bloom again? Don't know. Check them out! Every 5 to 7 years, renew the jasmine by cutting back to the ground.

Gentle Pruning

• Clematis vines—Snip away dead stems ABOVE a visible bud. If you do not see any visible buds, wait three weeks, for some more warm weather, to determine if vines have survived. Be careful not to cut through a stem that might be below a bud. Again, if in doubt, wait.
• Hydrangea vines—Those at 'Treetop Paradise' are looking fat and happy. Only prune off any branches that are in your way or errantly trying to get in the windows.
• Crape Myrtle—Watch for new leaves to arrive (this will probably happen late Spring). The shrub/small tree blooms in late Summer (last year it got confused and bloomed in July). After you see leaves, it is safe to do some shaping by cutting out stems and simplifying the trunks into groups of three, or five at the most. Be sure all leaves and twigs are removed way up (usually above your eye level) to enable the spectacular bark to show. This pruning will promote much more of a flower display in Fall (or whenever it chooses to bloom!)
• Nandina—it may be looking a little ratty these days. You can safely snip off dead leaves and twigs. But your goal is to create or maintain a fuller shape. So, either cut back all of the stems at an arbitrary height (less desirable method) or cut back just a few of the stems (more desirable). Occasionally it may be necessary to altogether remove a few of the thickest, oldest stems at the base. If you do the latter, be sure you keep the Nandina watered to lessen shock.

If you are encouraging a natural growth habit of shrubs in your garden, cut only broken branches and dead wood now. Allow these shrubs to grow to a mature size before tackling serious pruning.

Wait to prune some shrubs until after they bloom

It is best to prune some shrubs in the two months immediately following their bloom. By mid-to-late June, new buds are forming, even if invisible to us. Don't plan to prune after June 15.

Included in this list are the following: Azaleas, Deutzia, Forsythia (cut them to 12" high and wide right after flowering), Flowering Quince, Lilacs (cut off blooms as soon as they fade --or cut as they open and bring them indoors for heady fragrance), Hydrangeas (most, though not all, bloom on old wood). It is hard sometimes to keep track of which blooms on old vs. new. If you are not sure and your plants look ratty, cut off the ratty/dead tips, and wait to cut shrub way back until after bloom.

Overgrown shrubs may require hard, selective pruning after flowering. Do not prune back Rhododendrons except to remove dead or diseased wood. Best to ask a professional to help you, if you need to shape your Rhodies.

You may want to restore plants that have grown too large, or too dense; or too thin and leggy with drastic pruning measures: Easy Gardener is recommending that you wait before seriously attacking old shrubs, until they have had a chance to recover from February's weather. If you can wait, monitor them until you see how everything came through.

News Flash: Spring is close!

Wonderful news for serious gardeners/plant nuts/wannabe's of same: Pine Fines are going to be available by the bag at Piney Branch Hardware (Flower and Piney Branch Shopping Center; 301/589-4777) beginning March 2007. Spring really is just around the corner!

For those of you who find shredded hardwood mulch not compatible with your gardens (forms a crust that neither water nor shovel can penetrate), and who are seeking a better soil additive/top dressing, try Pine Fines, AKA Virginia Fines.

Pat Howell is a Takoma Park gardener and landscape designer/contractor. She is available for hand-holding and answering questions through Deephaven Landscapers.

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